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Griff's track day rallye

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  • #61
    I had a seat fitting when they were installed, there ok although it has been a while since I have had the seat in there

    I didn't know that, thankfully it wont ever go through scrutineering although I can't think of a reason why it would be dangerous?

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    • #62
      http://www.msauk.org/uploadedfiles/m...afety)_(K).pdf

      Page 181 shows how you can mount them...

      Its down to sharing the same chassis mounting points for both the seats and belts...

      I did ask a scruitineer once - and thats what he said... However he might be totally wrong... - it has been known!


      Just found this:
      2.1.4. Six Point. Two shoulder straps, one lap strap and
      two straps between the legs, with six anchorage points
      on the chassis/body shell or roll over bar of the vehicle,
      one either side of the driver, two to the rear of the
      driver’s seat and two between the legs

      Seat rails are not part of the chassis/roll over bar....
      Last edited by simon182; 22-04-2012, 05:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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      • #63
        Fair enough. I can't see a problem with them being mounted there on a track day car but good to know so I don't mount them on mine.
        dunc

        been there, done that... got trailered home!

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        • #64
          On first glance there ideal, but when you think about, if the rails we're ever to get damaged then the belts would come loose between the legs.
          Northern saloon car champonship build.

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          • #65
            No great problem with that.
            The crotch straps are to stop 'sub-marining'
            Mike
            www.106maxi.co.uk
            - North West Sports & Saloons Class F 2014 Champion
            - Winner of Dave Simpson Memorial Trophy

            - Britcar 24hour 2015, 2nd in class, 14th O/A
            - Seat Supercopa

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            • #66
              What are the best wire wheels for removing surface rust/paint?

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              • #67
                i used quite a few from "silverline" on my 4 1/2" grinder they probably arent the best but for the price they were unbeatable imo..

                i think you can get twisted and loose varieties, the twisted ones are a bit more aggressive but clog easier than loose ones..

                wear goggles and long sleeves though or you`ll end up blind and have an arm that makes you look like a heroin addict within 15 minutes....


                http://www.silverlinetools.com/products/d86/s759

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                • #68
                  Brill, if there cheap I would hate to see how expensive these others are lol

                  More advise needed, in prep for a body shop to paint my engine bay what is the bet state to leave it in as I have a price sorted with the man as long as I do all the prep work. Will I need to smooth the whole thing down with fine sand paper or just wire wheel the hell out of it and hand it over? obviously I should ask him but I won't be able to for a while an am inpatient lol

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                  • #69
                    i wouldnt leave it bare for any longer than an hour or 2...

                    have a word with him but i`d guess you`ll need to bare metal it then etch prime it at the least...

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                    • #70
                      Well engine came out last night ready for strip down and rebuild.

                      Next step is stripping the car back to a bare shell and getting it rolling again so i can clean it then attack the rust in the engine bay, and boot.

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                      • #71
                        Good progress so far mate, Thing's seem to be taking shape.

                        Have you managed to get anything else done..?

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                        • #72
                          Gearbox is rebuilt. I'll bring it into work tomorrow. I presume you have the clutch arm?? I can find it here anyways...

                          Any issues with it let me know!!

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