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  • Balancing throttle bodies

    As above, I have a set of Colin/Sandy GSXR bodies, and I was speaking to the guy who's probably going to map it. He was asking if I wanted the bodies balanced before the car is mapped, and I'm wondering do they need to balanced? And if they do, is it worth doing?

  • #2
    surely to get the best out of them and to map them properly they'll need to be balanced?

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    • #3
      I would definitely balance them. They need to pull in the same amount of air at idle so that when you open them up, one cylinder isn't going leaner or richer than the others, causing them to fight each other. Are they easy to adjust on the GSXR bodies? With Jenveys, you undo a lock nut and twiddle a screw until the desired setting and lock it back off. Is there enough room to stick a syncrometer into the trumpets in your engine bay?
      [B][SIZE="1"]Caterham 7: 203.3bhp/160lbft/503.8kgs. [COLOR="Red"]TARGET[/COLOR]: 250bhp/180lbft/<500kgs
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      • #4
        Yeah I was thinking that they'd need to be balanced to get the best out of them, but I wasn't sure if it was a necessity. Ill get it done for peace of mind. There's plenty of room mankee, the scuttle will be cut so there shouldn't be a problem there

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        • #5
          balancing them up is only for idle really, once there open there open... if there really out you will be able to tell it wouldn't tick over sweet like it should, get it done by all means but if you have a carb balancer it isnt hard to do yourself, would save you abit i should imagine.

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          • #6
            It affects far more than idle, you could be running one pot lean or even rich if they weren't in balance which would affect the mapping as it wont be right due to not having 4 separate lambda probes or being able to fuel each cylinder individually.

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            • #7
              They will come to you visually balanced, but checking the running/idling balance really is a basic of mapping and should always be checked and adjusted before any mapping takes place, otherwise you're peeing in the wind. Access with these in the car can be difficult for a balance meter, so listening with a small bore hose is the best way.

              It's dead easy with these, you start with the cable quadrant one and work away from it, going back to re-check. The lever balance screws are orientated to work like a bleed screw would (anti-clock for more air, clockwise for less). One of the main reasons I like the GSXR bodies, is that they stay in balance really well, far better/longer than any aftermarket bodies I've come across.
              Last edited by sandy309; 27-04-2013, 04:49 AM.

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              • #8
                I have just had the car running and checked the balance of the bodies at idle and the one that has the throttle linkage appears to be pulling in less air than the other 3 at idle. I've adjusted the screw but it doesn't appear to make any difference. Any ideas?
                Now running a 16v with 180bhp and Sadev sequential.

                Partner at Trackspec - Performance parts for enthusiasts
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                • #9
                  Turn the balance screw between that one and the second one clockwise to bring the others down and then screw the idle adjuster underneath to bring them all up.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for the advice Sandy. Does the same apply to DCOE Jenveys? just realised I hadn't stated which type. My throttle linkage is on body number 2, which is the one that is drawing less air.
                    Last edited by mattrallye; 09-06-2014, 08:12 PM.
                    Now running a 16v with 180bhp and Sadev sequential.

                    Partner at Trackspec - Performance parts for enthusiasts
                    info@trackspec.co.uk
                    www.trackspec.co.uk

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                    • #11
                      I was talking about the GSXR bodies, on Jenveys loosen the 7mm locknut on the balance link and use a 2mm allen key to adjust it. The screw goes clockwise for more air to the secondary body and anti-clock for less, then lock with the 7mm lock, taking care not to adjust it as you tighten it. The linkage relaxes on Jenveys over time and the secondary typically breathes less as a result and if the TPS is mounted on the secondary too, then it all goes a long way off, making the primary body cylinders lean and introducing a TPS dead spot off idle. Also the idle screw thread tends not to be tight enough to prevent it unscrewing with vibration.

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                      • #12
                        There is a tool for doing this ASAIK. Bob bought one to do mine as they needed balancing, may be easier just to get one I don't think they're expensive. At least then you'll know it's accurate.
                        106 Rallye - Never ending WIP....

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Lewis View Post
                          There is a tool for doing this ASAIK. Bob bought one to do mine as they needed balancing, may be easier just to get one I don't think they're expensive. At least then you'll know it's accurate.
                          Originally posted by sandy309 View Post
                          They will come to you visually balanced, but checking the running/idling balance really is a basic of mapping and should always be checked and adjusted before any mapping takes place, otherwise you're peeing in the wind. Access with these in the car can be difficult for a balance meter, so listening with a small bore hose is the best way.
                          Sandy got there first, but if you've room then a balancer is definitely the way!

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                          • #14
                            http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Synchromet...item53fd546e87

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                            • #15
                              I've used one of these in the past, work well:

                              http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Morgan-car...item27e80647ac
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